
Hello Folks!
Here are my adventures
I am restoring a soviet Start-Chauss (&1057,&1090,&1072,&1088,&1090,-&1064,&1086,&1089,&1089,&1077,) tubular racing bike, bought a month ago for 4,500 rub. ($150 USD) )))
It's a futuristic cutting-edge technology of late 50's, but the bike was made in about 1990
Advised by Jon Bryant of 70-ish feel of these tires, and hoping that the problems noted by LA Cyclist arouse after Vittoria moved production to a new site in Thailand and these problems were fixed by now, and being seduced by the price and retro yellow-black color, I bought three Vittoria Rally Tubulars 600-23.
IMPORTANT DISCOVERED FACTS (Series Number 09030954 3021)
1. Valve base is (heat) glued to the outer side of rubber tube. There is a 2mm mountain near the valve base. Therefore, in your rim MUST have inner hole for valve twice as large as the diameter of valve with its edges rounded. Otherwise, the tubular near the valve will fit with a gap and will be get cut shortly thereafter.
2. On retro Start-Chauss (&1057,&1090,&1072,&1088,&1090,-&1064,&1086,&1089,&1089,&1077,) rims After, I pump the Vittoria Rally Tubulars 600-23 above 40psi, 1mm gap starts forming between the tubular and edges of the rim. For one of two reasons
a. In good old days, thinnest soviet tubular was 24 mm width as opposed to the 23 mm tubular I was putting on.
b. Vittoria Rally has 2mm edge (bump) on most inner diameter, where it's sewed. It could be a design feature for tube stability on modern rims or for fitting rims designed for thinner tubulars. However, Start-Chauss (&1057,&1090,&1072,&1088,&1090,-&1064,&1086,&1089,&1089,&1077,) rim bed is perfectly round.
3. Twin Tread compound is harder in the middle for longer wear and softer on the shoulders for grip when cornering. Softer sides of Kevlar 3D compound does not seem as puncture resistant as in the center. I guess it is supposed to be an advantage for racing vittoria tubulars.
Vittoria Rally is a nice looking tire. I am only describing how it might not fit many retro rims.
Have Fun!
Nikolay.
I only ride for fun and in non-competitive centuries. I don't have a support crew. My old road bike has tublar rims and hese tires are great for durability. I carry two, just in case.
I use this tire for daily street riding and it works well. Its hard to find tubular sew ups that arent outrageous in price. Thanks for you great prices and excellent service.
This tire feels just like the training tire (290 gram cottons) that everybody rode on during the week when I was racing in the 1970's.
The fact that it is actually cheaper - inflation adjusted - than back then is amazing.
If you have never ridden on tubulars, I highly recommend you try these, with one piece of advice during your ride, keep them clean by peridically putting your hand on them to avoid pounding a piece of glass through - a small price to pay for the very lively feel they afford.
As for the stories about a piece of glass cutting your finger when you knock it out of the tread, they are old wives tales.
I was a little concerned when I bought these tires that they would just be a cheapcrappy tire that might last a month. I was WRONG!! For the price you pay, you CAN NOT beat these tires!!I've riding them HARD for three months and I love them!! When this set finally goes I'll be purchasing another set!
I ride smooth paved roads. I have lots of experience with tubulars, which I generally prefer. I've gone through many expensive and inexpensive tires. I bought four of these on a trial. Two puctured the first time out, both on the rear wheel. I've never had such poor luck with any tire, tubular or clincher. To my experience, these things were Junk with a capital J.
I have 3 sets of wheels, One of the nicest tires sets of the three wheels is the Michline Kryons, Then I put on my Carbons and for trainning with these Tires, and thats what stays on from spring thru fall. New England roads and back roads training ,,,TUBULARS RULE,,,,AT THESE PRICES do yourselfs a favor and put on tubulars and this tires, you'll never go back!!
I've bought quite a few of these over the years when I couldn't afford anything else, but I won't buy another. Rarely have I ever got more than two rides out of one of these without a flat, more often than not less than one. ANY debris on the road spells disaster for this tire -- twigs, acorns, small stones anything punches a hole in 'em. They ride and handle well, they are easy to mount, but just too fragile for everyday use.
For a tubular this is a great value. I ride everyday to work in spring, summer and early fall on this tire. I average 2 flats during this period, and I ride city and country roads. This tire is smooth and responsive. You can not beat the price.
Buy two!
Excellent ride for economy tire. Get the 23c and don't over inflate. Glue at full pressure until dry.
Rides like higher end tire for the most part, good at everything except full on racing, even then it is likely faster than any clincher- regardless of what you read. Butyl tube so doesn't leak air if thats your gig. Probably the best tire in the low and mid price range. Note the
220tpi casing.
I've used Rally's for over 20 years .. both on my 30 year old vintage and modern road bikes. They are durable and cheap enough to replace after a puncture ... though you can easily repair the puncture if you have the time. I bought a pair for my carbon tubular wheels for my modern race bike as well.
Commute in Seattle area on wet roads, tire grip great on downhill switch back turns, good puncture resistance. Have been using this tire for years. Glass etc does cause punctures occasionally, but what tire can handle city roads in all weather year round?