Compared to the Shimano equivalent master link, this is about a third the cost. The manufacturer of this product says it can be re-used 5 times. Shimano says their master link can't be re-used at all. So, if all you care about is cost, then this master link is the way to go. I've used this master link for about 500 miles and I can't tell the difference between it and the Shimano equivalent. Of course even a single failure would negate any cost savings. Only time will tell.
Bought on sale for a climbing century. I was concerned I would not be able to use it with my Shimano 9150 DI2 since it was not recommended. I run a sub-compact (50/34). It worked in all gears but didn't want to risk going big-big gear option. So I set my DI2 to full syncro mode and limited gear options to drop down the front to 34 when gearing down (higher up on the cassette) on the rear cassette from 27. This avoided the big-big gear selection that put a lot of stress on my rear derailer. Worked great!
I switched out my old Ultegra crankset to GRX (FC-6800) as I wanted lower gearing. As I learned that the GRX chainline is slightly different and it would be difficult to keep the old Ultegra FD (FD-6800) from rubbing I also changed out the FD to this GRX810. It's important to find and download the Shimano installation and adjustment instructions as they don't come with the components any longer. Anyway, they made if very easy to install and to adjust to prevent rubbing at all chain angles.
The GRX FD-RX810 seems very much like the 105 FD-R7000 on my new road bike. It shifts quite nicely - smooth and easy. After 26K miles the old Ultegra FD was pretty beat up and ready to be replaced anyway.
So I hop around bikes frequently, and one thing I really did notice was how stiff/spongy the older D1 AXS levers were. It was VERY noticeable when coming off of a Shimano setup. They stopped fine, it was just more of a squeeze to make it happen.
Whatever Sram has figured out with the new E1 lever, gamechanger for them. They are very close to Shimano now.
The hoods are shaped better too, much thinner, and if you are a home wrench, the line is way easier to get into the lever body, it's a one wrench operation now.
Bleeding is super easy, most modern stuff I'd say is nice and easy now. I have the Sram bleed kit and I don't even get a drip when I do it now, so that's a bonus.
Break in was super easy, and the pad bite/lever reach screws are also actually functional and work well.
I have no complaints, I honestly kept the front and rear ders going on my one bike, and just changed the levers/calipers over, which has been night and day better. The derailleurs work fine.
I sorta wish Sram would stop using DOT fluid, especially with some travel restrictions coming into play depending on where you live (DOT fluid and aluminum is bad news, some countries are making you drain out DOT fluid pre-flight). Shimano seems fine with mineral oil, and I can't tell a difference, make it easier on us please.
Didn't weigh them, don't care that much, just wanted better levers, and boy did I get it.
